Inn at Little Washington - The Inn

A zillion words have been written about the Inn at Little Washington's incredible restaurant (and we'll be adding a few too many words about our experience soon), but not as many that detail the experience of being an overnight guest at the Inn. 

For a celebratory weekend, I booked a surprise trip for B to the Inn for a one night stay and dinner.  We paired it with a hiking day trip to Shenandoah for an unforgettable weekend.  We left DC in the morning and took our time with the drive out to Washington, VA.  I figured we could show up well before check-in time and wander around the town.  Turns out that it takes about 3.5 minutes to walk around the whole "town."  It's really nothing more than the Inn, a few art galleries and little bed and breakfasts.  We ended up grabbing a bite to eat at a roadside cafe a few miles past the Inn and heading to check-in early.

From the minute we pulled up to the Inn, I knew it would be quite a treat.  The staff met us at the car, welcomed us by name, and whisked our bags away.  We had a welcome cocktail in our hands in about five seconds flat and were led into the tea room for afternoon tea.  Our host, Cameron, is the Inn's tea and cheese guru and has a personality as quirky and fun as the Inn's decor.  He brought us each a pot of tea and selection of sweet and savory goodies from the kitchen.  We sat back in the overstuffed chairs and marveled at the over-the-top room that would make a Louis proud.  Everything about the Inn is wacky and wonderful.

After tea, we were led up to our room. During the Inn's remodel, each room was designed and named for an iconic food personality.  Our room, the Jean-Georges Vongerichten room, overlooked the front of the Inn.

We enjoyed the handwritten welcome note from Chef Patrick O'Connell and the basket of fruit and baked goods that awaited us. The room was cozy and comfortable in a country way.  It was plenty spacious too, with a separate sitting area and balcony.  The fluffy robes and bath products were also top notch.

We'll save dinner for another post, but breakfast (included with the stay) deserves mention. This is not your ordinary hotel breakfast with stale bagels and bad OJ.  It is a breakfast befitting the Inn's five star culinary reputation.  We were seated facing the sunny patio in a comfy side-by-side table.  This is the one time that sitting on the same side of a table is perfectly acceptable.  Otherwise, it's just weird.

They brought out a selection of fresh juices and pastries, granola and fruit.  Though still full from the epic marathon meal the night before, we managed to put away every delicious morsel.

As we packed up the car to leave the Inn, they presented us with bottled water for the drive home and a tin of hard candies.  We've stayed at some pretty cool places around the world, but have never seen so many personal and thoughtful touches as we did at the Inn.  It was over-the-top fantastic in every way.

Second Thoughts From B

Part upper-crust French country cottage, part Willy Wonka's culinary wonderland, the Inn at Little Washington hardly seems like the product of humble beginnings. However, did you know that one of America's greatest restaurants grew out of an old gas station?  True fact.

I don't know if the origin of the Inn's structure gets the credit but outside of the small fortune required to be a guest, there is no air of pretentiousness or elitism that I could detect among the staff or patrons.  Rather, it felt like you were staying at your eccentric uncle's farm house. It was comfortable, quiet and accommodating. Admittedly, we were waited on throughout our stay but it was done so in a friendly and helpful manner that made us feel comfortable.  We were given what we wanted before we considered asking for it and were not put in the awkward position of turning down unnecessary service that often comes with high-end hotels. "Yes, come to think of it, I would like some more tea" rather than "no, I don't need you to turn the page of my menu."

I don't know how a business strikes the balance between pampering and overbearing but the Inn was able to do it.  Then again, I don't know how they do half the things there... I'm just happy that they do.

TwoDC Turns Four!

Four years ago today, we started chronicling our adventures in DC.  We had no idea that our little journal would turn into a blog with over 400 posts covering our lives in DC from A (Acadiana) to Z (zpizza).  In fact, we've written about at least one restaurant from every letter of the alphabet except X.  2013 will be the year we complete the alphabet!

On 2/10/2009, DC was welcoming a brand new President to town.  On 2/10/2013, DC has the same President but an entirely new crop of restaurants to dazzle him with.  New restaurants are popping up so fast, we can't come close to keeping track.  4 years ago we never would have thought that H Street NE and the 14th Street Corridor would be the hot places in town to slurp a bowl of noodles or eat a toffee bacon donut.

We are thrilled you've joined us for every up and down over the past 1,460 days.  Without readers like you, we'd just be writing to our parents.  It kind of bewilders us that anybody except our parents is even out there.  Hello not-our-parents-readers and hello to our parents too.  Here's to more adventures in DC (culinary and otherwise)!

Second Thoughts From B

4 years is a long time to do anything.  Seems like we should be graduating with a degree by now.  I guess that is one of the great things about this city that we call home.  After 4 years of exploration, there is still so much for us to see and do.  Glad to have everyone along for the ride!

Shenandoah National Park

While we're spending some vacation time hiking the Inca Trail on the way to Machu Picchu, we leave you with some thoughts on a more local hiking destination: Shenandoah National Park.

As much as we loved our Old Rag Mountain hike, we understand that it isn't for everyone.  After all, we paid a price for those spectacular views:  10 miles and 2000 feet of elevation gain, scrambling up rocks and through narrow crevices, and a brutal 0400 wake up call (what does the 0 stand for?  Oh my God it's early!).

Fortunately, there are plenty of other options in the region's National Park.  Yes, I know that there are technically lots of National Parks in the DC area, but when I think of that title, this West Coaster thinks of Yosemite, Sequoia, Death Valley, Grand Canyon, Arches, Zion, etc.  By that measure, Shenandoah is "the" National Park in the area.  Fortunately, it is a good one.

Most visitors enjoy Shenandoah not more than 100 feet from Skyline Drive.  That's a good starting point but there is so much more.  After all, why restrict your excursion into nature by staying behind glass and on pavement?  Recently, we were joined by our hiking buddy Commie (his name is Comstock; he's not a Communist) for a 3 day stroll through the backcountry.  We chose a roughly 20 mile loop that started at Bootens Gap and included time in and around Jones Mountain, the Staunton River, and President Hoover's Rapidan Camp.

There are two things that make hiking in Shenadoah particularly nice.  There is plenty of access to water (i.e., less you have to carry) and all the trails are extremely well marked.

This particular hike was especially scenic and for a three-day weekend with pleasant (though at times rainy) weather, surprisingly empty.  The one area where we did see a few more people was at Rapidan Camp. 

I may have been in the minority but I loved having a splash of history and culture along mile 14 of our journey.  If nothing else, it was nice to get a chance to take the packs off, sit on a bench and get out of the elements for a while.  But if you're a bit of a nerd like me, you will be fascinated by this pre-Camp David presidential retreat that hosted President Hoover on nearly every weekend during the early years of the Depression.  The mental image of the President, Vice President, and Cabinet standing knee deep in the river with fishing poles and discussing the national crisis is... well... interesting.  It should also be noted that the cabin has hosted many other Presidents, Congressmen, Supreme Court Justices, and other dignitaries through the years.

But, back to nature.  As mentioned earlier, much of our hike passed by beautiful streams and ponds, including the one above that made for a refreshing dip.  And if you're not walking near water, you're most likely on a ridge that has breathtaking views.  On our second night, we were lucky enough to snag a camping spot along one of these ridges (and on the famous Appalachian Trail (AT)).

Not a bad way to spend a weekend when you have such beauty to greet you in the morning.

J Says

I don't know if B brainwashed me or what, but I really love spending a weekend away from civilization in the form of a backpacking trip.  After just two days, you feel as refreshed as if you've been gone for a week.  There's just nothing like being away from everything, including my beloved iPhone. 

As B said, Shenandoah has everything you'd want in a National Park and us Washingtonians are lucky enough to have it within easy driving distance.  If you're not ready to venture out on the trail overnight, there are lots of day hikes that you can cap off with an actual meal in a restaurant along Skyline Drive.  I suggest calling a ranger and getting suggestions for a hike or talking to someone in the book section of your local REI.  We've found all of our best hikes this way and they'll teach you how to beat the crowds. 

I hope your holiday season is filled with plenty of time with friends and family and just maybe (if the weather permits) a walk in the woods!

National Christmas Tree Lighting

Last week, we had the pleasure of attending the 90th lighting of the National Christmas Tree at President's Park next to the White House (not to be confused with the Capitol Christmas Tree in front of the Capitol Building).

It was very exciting to see President Obama and family light the tree.  After the former tree was felled by a storm and the 2011 tree died of transplant shock, it was nice seeing a healthy-looking and not scraggly 2012 tree.  Let's hope this one lasts for generations to come!

Musical performances by acts such as Colbie Caillat and Jason Mraz got everyone in the holiday spirit.

James Taylor's rendition of Winter Wonderland gave us happy chills (to go with our "we've been standing in the cold for hours" chills).  Is there a more soothing voice on the planet?

Neil Patrick Harris (a.k.a. Barney wait-for-it Stinson) did a fabulous job as host, keeping the show moving and interjecting his own special blend of humor.

We highly recommend braving the cold next year to attend the tree lighting.  If you're interested, here are our top tips for maximum enjoyment:

• Enter the online free ticket lottery in late October (have all of your friends do it to increase your chances).
• If you get Standing Room Only tickets like we did, don't be deterred because you can still see the stage if you go early enough.  They also have giant screens to help you see the action up close.
• Send at least one member of your party to get there right when the gates open.  I arrived at 2:30 p.m. for the 3:00 p.m. gate opening and was at the very front of the Standing Room Only section.  B arrived at 4:00 p.m. and had to wait in a ginormous line, but was able to wriggle his way up to me.
• Dress very, very warmly because you'll be standing in one spot for hours.
• Before the show (between 4:30 and 5:00 pm), if the seats aren't all filled, they will allow Standing Room Only people to fill the seats.  Look for this and be ready to move.  We were happy with our standing spot, but lots of standers were able to snag seats.
• Don't leave once the President lights the tree! He does this at the beginning of the show but then comes back later to speak.  So many people left right after the Obamas lit the tree and they missed all the fun stuff.
• Again, dress very, very warmly so you don't have to leave before the show is over!

Happy Holidays to you!

Second Thoughts From B

Whether you like the President or not, you can't deny that he can draw ridiculously high-powered talent to play shows in DC.  Better yet, many of these opportunities are free.  Let's look at that last photo for a second.  In addition to the aforementioned James Taylor, Colbie Caillat, Jason Mraz, and Neil Patrick Harris, the first family is joined on stage by The Fray, Ledisi, American Idol winner Phillip Phillips, Babyface, and Modern Family's Rico Rodriguez.  Heck, even Santa Claus himself joined in! 

It may be dismissed as a touristy and crowded mess in the cold, but not only are we happy we got to go, we'd love to do it again.

Old Rag Mountain

Being stuck at home for several days thanks to Hurricane Sandy makes us especially appreciative of the power of nature... not just the destructive power, but also its awe-inspiring beauty and therapeutic effects on the soul.  Washington, DC isn't just a city of power and culture, it is also an area surrounded by natural wonders worth exploring.  And since we've been cooped up on telework for the last few days, we thought it would be nice to create a miniseries of posts dedicated to fresh air and stretching your legs in the great outdoors.

Any discussion of hiking in the Mid-Atlantic region should begin with Old Rag Mountain.  Located within a 2 hour drive of DC on the eastern side of Shenandoah National Park, this approximately 9 mile loop tops most nature lovers' to-do lists.  And rightfully so.  The trail is an enjoyable, yet challenging, combination of well-groomed paths, strenuous switch-backs, rocky scrambles, and unparalleled views.  The only downside is the crowds.  Disneyland-sized crowds.

Everything we read about the trail said to arrive no later than 7 am.  Being the overachievers that we are, we arrived at 5 am.  Yeah, you read that right.  5 am.

We were going to do Old Rag on a weekend at the peak of the fall colors.  That meant going down to Culpeper the night before, staying in a motel, and arriving at the trail before the crowds showed up.  On the drive down, however, we learned that there would be a spectacular meteor shower (Orionids).  This altered our plans.  Now the goal was to be on the trail early enough to see the stars and a meteor or two.  In other words, 5 am.

Mission accomplished.  Stumbling out of bed at exactly 3:59 am, we got to the Old Rag parking lot a little after 5, hit the trail (almost a mile from the lot) by headlamp by 5:30, and arrived at the first overlook for sunrise.  Was it worth it?  Oh yeah!  And yes, we saw a few meteors.

We can't tell you much about the loop's 2 miles of switchbacks to get to the overlook (it was dark) but we can tell you that the next 1.5 miles of scrambling was lots of fun.  If you go, be prepared to squeeze and contort your body in yoga-esque ways to get up, over, and through the rocky terrain.  It isn't rock climbing, but you will need to use your hands and knees in many areas.

This is where you'll most appreciate your efforts to arrive early.  The benefits of solitude while in the wilderness are obvious.  Less obvious is the fact that those who sleep in will be in stop and go traffic throughout their climb.  I can't imagine coming all that way to escape the city just to find the frustrations of rush hour traffic on the Beltway.

After you scramble to the summit, the rest of the way is mostly wide open trail and fire road, which is an alternate out and back route for those who want to summit without the scramble.

By the time we were back at our car it was 11:20 am.  There, we were met by hoards of hikers of various ages and physical abilities just arriving at the trail.  After seeing no more than a dozen or so people on our hike, we encountered several hundred on the road between the parking lot and the trailhead.  I think I'd rather endure another few hurricanes than be stuck on a trail with half the Delmarva population in front of me.

J Says

Like B said, Old Rag is a fantastic combination of rock scramble, hiking, and scenic views.  If you want the scenic view to be of the mountain and not the butt of the hiker in front of you, go early.  Did we emphasize this enough?  OK good.

I highly recommend driving out the night before and staying in a cheap motel in Culpeper (the Best Western was clean and comfortable and only $90). Not only does it make the wake-up time more manageable, you can also grab a relaxing dinner in town (for us that meant Taco Bell and Cold Stone Creamery), tour the local Walmart, and go to bed early.

I'll leave you with a wardrobe tip: wear durable pants.  Due to all the scrambling, you're going to be sliding on your behind a lot.  Nobody wants to do the second half of the hike with scraped up legs (from wearing shorts) or a hole in their pants.  A pair of hiking pants or thicker workout pants should do the trick.

Happy hiking!

Perry's Drag Brunch

If you're looking for something unique for Sunday brunch, look no further than Perry's in Adams Morgan.  Every Sunday people line up for Perry's $23.95 all-you-can-eat buffet featuring performances by about a half dozen drag queens. Seriously.

Our awesome friends M and A live down the street from Perry's so they got in line just before 9 a.m. and were second in line.  The doors opened promptly at 10 a.m. and we were ushered upstairs to our table.   

A line immediately formed for the buffet as waiters dashed around taking drink orders (they do pitchers of alcoholic beverages that are not included in the brunch price). 

The buffet featured an interesting selection of items from chicken to waffles....

...to sushi and pasta.

While none of the food was super amazing, it was all decently tasty and made even better when washed down with a bellini with 8,734 cherries in it. 

At 11 a.m. the music started. One by one, the queens strutted out.  Some were into the lip synching and dancing while others focused on embarrassing the audience members.

Make sure you come with dollar bills in hand to tip the queens.  Quick tip: if you don't want to be the focus of the queens' shtick (or breasts), don't sit on the aisle. Instead, choose a seat at your table that's up against a wall or smashed in by another table and not accessible.  Or else, you'll be this guy:

In the midst of the strutting and semi-dancing, one queen took the mic and interviewed birthday boys and girls.  Not a good idea to volunteer if you don't want to be completely embarassed (or if you're not completely drunk). 

Overall, the drag brunch was a fun experience that we're glad we can check off our DC Bucket List. We were a little disappointed in the lack of "performance" by a lot of the queens.  Some seemed to be going through the motions and totally uninterested.  The fact that it was 11 a.m. in a brightly lit room probably took away from the mystique of it all.  Bottom line: a fun thing to do once, but not a place we need to return.

Second Thoughts from B

Well, that was interesting.  And to be honest, I don't know what more I can say.  But I guess I can share some lessons learned (in no particular order):

1. Do not anger the older, testy drag queen that resembles Muhammad Ali after the Thrilla in Manila.
2. The bowl of gravy by the biscuits is safe to eat by the spoonful as it is actually broccoli and cauliflower soup.
3. In case you're asked -- which you will be -- BBC stands for Big Black... uh, Chicken... just like OPP stands for Other People's Property.  Unlike Perry's Drag Brunch, this blog is safe for children.
4. Any of the meat on a stick and pastry options are your best bets.  The orzo pasta was pretty good too.
5. However you react to the queens, probably good not to go with "lusty glare."  It isn't a good look when there is that much light and sobriety in the room.
6. Despite all stereotypes to the contrary, Mr. Bass Pro Shops and family seemed to have a good time.  Still, the camouflaged fishing hat complete with hook on the bill was a surprising choice... as was bringing the 13 year old granddaughter.
7. Nothing good comes from raising your hand when they ask, "Do we have any straight guys in the audience today?"
8. Man or woman, I'm always impressed when someone in high heels drops down into the splits.
9. Whether your Sunday mornings involve drag queens or not, you have to love that we live in a city where it is an integral part of the culture.  Thank you Perry's for adding some color to DC!

Golf at East Potomac Park

In life, there are things that we make happen regardless of the obstacles and there are things that we will never do without a gun pointed at our head.  Most things, however, lie somewhere in between those two extremes.

When J made her 30 Before 30 list (for more, see here and here), the intention was to push herself to do those things that she always wanted to do yet, for whatever reason, had not.  Playing nine holes at East Potomac Park was a perfect example.

The appeal is clear and goes like this: location, location, location.  The course is bordered by the Potomac to the west, the Jefferson Memorial to the north, and Hains Point to the east.  Looking for a target for your tee shot?  Try the Washington Monument.  So why has it taken this long for us to play a round out there? I guess there was that pesky obstacle of teaching J how to play.

I was lucky enough to grow up with the game. My grandfather was one of the first members of the Los Angeles Chinese Golf Club and passed the sport down to my whole family.  As J likes to point out, we've gone on family golf vacations together.  That's how engrained it is in my childhood.  (Yikes, how snobby does that sound? Let me be clear, when I say I grew up with the game, I don't mean on a country club. I'm talking Danny Noonan, not Judge Smails).

Regardless, marrying into my family without knowing a tee from a two-iron can be intimidating.  All credit goes to J for even attempting to pick up a golf club.  Thankfully, whether you are learning to play like J or dusting off considerable rust like me, East Potomac Park is worth a trip.

There are three courses.  The Red Course is a 9-hole par 3 "pitch and putt" for beginners.  The White Course is a 9-hole executive track (3 and 4 par holes).  The Blue Course is the regulation 18-hole course.  The facility has a double deck driving range (invest in the discount card), chipping area, and multiple putting greens.  The pro shop is small but serviceable (they did a nice job regripping my clubs), and the online reservation system has been great.

As for the course, if the Red Course is any indication, East Potomac is quite the hidden gem.  The crowds are low (we've seen plenty of twosomes), the pace is good, and the condition of the greens and tee boxes is surprisingly high.  Keeping in mind that this course caters to people learning to play and that greens fees are only $10-13, it is quite a bargain.

After a handful of amateur lessons at the driving range (under the cover of darkness), J more than held her own on the Red Course and was able to check off the most intimidating item of her 30 Before 30 list.  Not only have we been back (on her request), we even played nine with my parents.

J Says

Like swing dancing, golf scared the crap out of me.  I'm not big on being "new" at things, particularly when being new could mean sending an errant ball careening into a crowd of people or (more likely) whiffing entirely while people are waiting for you to tee off.  Like B said, I insisted we go to the driving range when it was late at night and nobody would notice me.  When I finally got the nerve to try the Red Course, I found friends to book all the spots in our foursome so that we wouldn't get paired with any strangers.  I was a total nervous wreck but ended up having a blast (and an allergy attack), and was excited to go back and try again.  I even managed to overcome my fears and play a round with B's parents on Father's Day.  After the initial anxiety attack subsided, I got into the groove and actually hit some decent shots. 

The Red Course at East Potomac is just my speed.  Not at all intimidating, and cheap enough that I feel like I can go out and try without breaking the bank.  I also really love the setting near the monuments and the proximity to the ever-important post-golf brunch options (Eastern Market, for example).  I'm still a bundle of nerves and still secretly hope that we won't get paired with strangers, but I am becoming more confident, nine holes at a time.

If you're new to golf, I recommend checking out their Get Golf Ready classes for just $99.  If I wasn't such a giant chicken (and didn't have a private coach in B), I would sign up in a heartbeat.  Another great and affordable DC hidden gem.

Marine Barracks Parade

Check another one off of the DC Bucket List!  Every Friday night during the summer months, the Marine Barracks Washington (also known as "8th and I" due to its location) hosts a public Evening Parade featuring the U.S. Marine Band, U.S. Marine Drum and Bugle Corps,  the Marine Corps Color Guard, the Marine Corps Silent Drill Platoon, Ceremonial Marchers, and LCpl. Chesty XIII, the official mascot of Marine Barracks Washington (a bulldog).

The one hour and fifteen minute event is packed with great hats (above) and patriotic tunes (below).
 

We were in awe of the precision and discipline of the hundreds of marching Marines...

and spellbound by the skill of the Silent Drill Platoon.

If you want to get in on the patriotic action, you can go online and request a free ticket here.  There are still slots left for July and August, but don't delay!  We booked online in March for a reservation in May.  If you can't plan that far ahead, you can show up at the General Admission line at the Main Gate and take your chances that they'll have room for you once the ticketed groups have been seated.
 

Don't miss your chance to view one of DC's best free hidden gems.

Second Thoughts from B

My mother loves pomp and circumstance more than anyone I know.  Much more.  She is the one person who looks forward to those interminable graduation ceremonies just because that means she'll get to hear an extra 45 minutes of the graduation march.  Add highly decorated uniforms and intricately choreographed rifle tossing to the military band's soundtrack, and she's more giddy than a teenage girl at a Justin Bieber concert.

I can't say that J or I share my mother's immense enthusiasm, but we sure appreciate the pageantry, precision, and patriotism of the Marine Corps that is on display every Friday night.  But putting all alliteration aside (see what I did there!), you can't call yourself a Washingtonian until you've spent a night at 8th and I.  In many ways, our city is built on a long history of proud military tradition.  To get a chance to celebrate it through live music on a warm summer night makes you pull those shoulders back, stand up straight, and be proud of your country.  Or maybe that's just the influence of the latest Chevy commercial. Either way, the Evening Parade is just one more (free!) thing that makes DC a special place.

Cooking Class at Sur La Table, Practiced at DC Central Kitchen

With all the restaurants we go to, you might be surprised to learn that we eat at home a lot and love to cook.  When it comes to cooking, it hasn't been all smooth sailing for me.  I grew up as a picky eater who preferred dumping Ranch dressing on my food to trying new things.  Until we moved to DC, my idea of cooking was pouring something frozen from Trader Joe's into a wok (confession: I still love TJ's frozen food!), heating it up, and putting it on a plate.  I was completely petrified of fresh vegetables and anything that wasn't pre-cut.  I didn't even know how to hold a knife, much less julienne something.

I watched my mother-in-law cook amazing meals and bake tons of desserts and just sort of froze at the thought of being compared to her.  When your husband grows up with homemade everything, you want to homemake nothing.  But, as my interest in food increased, I started to realize that a part of me secretly wanted to be a good home cook.

I adopted Julia Child's "don't be afraid" motto, put on an Iron Chef apron, and started to experiment.  I started really slowly with recipes from Real Simple that I would not alter even when B commented that the dish was under-seasoned and needed salt.  "It's not in the recipe!" I would say.  I eventually became brave enough to start adding my own seasoning and going off the script if I didn't have all of the ingredients that Real Simple told me I needed.  I finally began to shed my Real Simple crutch and tackled more challenging recipes.  While there were a few miscues here and there (and maybe some tears), I began to grow more confident with each meal. 

Despite my growing confidence, I still found myself hacking the crap out of vegetables because I didn't know the first thing about how to properly use a knife.  I decided to go to the pros and signed us up for a knife skills intro class at Sur La Table in Pentagon Row.  Our very friendly (and not at all scary) instructor M.J. taught us a ton of useful tips from proper knife holding, to how to attack tough items (pineapple, tomatoes, squash, etc.), to how to care for your knives.

Ready to put our new skillz to the test, we signed up (through One Brick) to volunteer at the D.C. Central Kitchen.  The DCCK deserves its own post on the amazing things it is doing to feed D.C.'s hungry masses and give people job skills to enable them to work in the culinary field.  It's a magical place and we were happy to get to spend a morning there.

They put us right to work peeling and chopping a giant vat of onions.  B and I teamed up (he peeled while I chopped, then we switched) and flew through about 200 pounds of onions in a few hours.  We were a lean, mean onion cutting machine!  With each onion I grew a little bit more confident and a little faster.  By the time we walked out the DCCK doors (with a pair of matching blisters), I was ready to jump back in my kitchen and cook up a storm.

I'm no Julia Child, but thanks to Sur La Table and DCCK, I'm a small step closer to being the confident cook I hope to be.

Second Thoughts from B

I hate to admit it but I was spoiled growing up... at least when it comes to food. Every meal was made from scratch, from the french toast in the morning to the lemon tart at night.  I grew up thinking that everyone was as skilled in the kitchen as my mother.  Fortunately, not everyone loves cooking as much as she does, so when it came to finding a sous chef, I was the only choice (let's just say my father has been blessed with skills that don't involve the kitchen).  The result is that I enjoy cooking and am comfortable doing so.  I wouldn't go so far to say that I have any talent for it, but I can follow a recipe.

When J and I first started dating, I always felt that I had cooking as a way to impress her.  Now, however, I have to admit that her abilities have exceeded mine.  It is humbling, but also wonderful to see her confidence grow.  Cooking is a regular part of our lives and we've had great fun learning together (for more on cooking classes, see here and here).  It has gotten to the point that I think it is fair to say that an enjoyable Sunday afternoon for us involves several hours in the kitchen together.

About once a month, this Sunday cooking session involves me making a huge vat of pasta sauce.  Since I'm my mother's son, I'm proud to say that it is completely from scratch which means a lot of time chopping garlic, onions, carrots, celery, etc.  Needless to say, taking the time to learn proper technique and getting the chance to practice has saved me a lot of time.  That we were able to feed some people at the same time is a pretty awesome bonus.

Learning how to chop a vegetable might not be as glamorous as taking a pie making class, but there's nothing better for accelerating your abilities in the kitchen.  Sur La Table is a great place to start but as anyone will tell you, practice makes perfect.  It may feel weird at first and result in a blister or two, but trust me, it'll be worth it.  So instead of buying 100 pounds of onions and making your home stink for a week, run down to DCCK and do some good for the community... just make sure to bring a Bandaid or two.

The Jam Cellar - Swing Dance Lessons

You're probably thinking "Swing dance lessons? What is this, 1997?"  Yes, it's been a few years since the swing craze swept the nation, but swing is alive and well every Tuesday night in DC.  B learned to swing dance in LA at the height of swingmania and, at every wedding we go to, he tries to swing me around the floor while I cling on for dear life hoping the song will end quickly. 

When it came time to write my 30 Before 30 list, I decided to add "take a beginner's swing dance lesson" so that I can keep up with my fancy footed husband.  Some quick Googling led me to The Jam Cellar, an every Tuesday swing dancing event in a gorgeously restored 18th century  mansion overlooking Meridian Hill Park.

The Jam Cellar offers a free lesson every Tuesday night at 8:30 p.m.  If you want to stay for the main event, a DJ-led dance at 9:00 p.m., it will only set you back $6.  If you really want to get into the swing of things, you can sign up for a 4-week set of lessons for $50 (includes dance admission).

Of all the things on my 30 list, I was perhaps most nervous about this swing dance lesson.  Sure, I fly through the air on the trapeze without fear, but I get really nervous about partner dancing.

The lesson was taught by Andy, who immediately put me at ease with his easy-to-follow explanations and carefree attitude.  Right when I was feeling pretty good, Andy announced that we'd be partnering up.  No problem, I thought.  I can dance terribly with B and it won't be so bad.  After a quick spin with B, Andy announced we would be switching partners. Wait, what!?  Apparently this is standard partner dancing lesson protocol, but I'm glad I didn't know about it before the lesson.  I probably never would have gone in.  Luckily, the other partners were great sports (and about as new at this as I was), and we had fun fumbling our way through the steps until it resembled something like dancing.  Each time I took a turn with Andy, I just grabbed on tightly and let him swing me around a lot.  I think once or twice I even put my feet in the right place!

Our 30 minute lesson turned into an 60 minute lesson as Andy taught us variations on the basic steps.  Not bad for a free class!  By the end, I felt confident enough to head upstairs to the big kids' dance and fumble my way through a couple of songs. 

Every time that I'm totally freaked out by something and force myself to try it, I end up glad that I did it.  The same is true for dancing at The Jam Cellar.  The atmosphere was welcoming and the price was right.  I may never be ready for primetime, but you may find me on Tuesday nights at The Jam Cellar, stepping on B's toes in the corner of the room.

Second Thoughts from B

To be perfectly clear, J's tongue is firmly planted in her cheek when she referred to me as her "fancy footed husband."  While I'm not completely oafish, I'm far from comfortable on a dance floor.  Rhythm, much less impromptu movement that some would call dancing, doesn't come naturally to me.  Perhaps that is why I like swing dancing.  I know just enough to feel comfortable, and as long as I follow the script, I'm passable.

There was a window of time when swing dancing and the related culture was cool.  The movies Swingers and Swing Kids coincided with popular music inspired by 1930's big band.  Zoot suits, Big Bad Voodoo Daddy, and the Brian Setzer Orchestra were regularly found at parties.  And during all of this, any guy willing to learn a few basic steps would have no shortage of attractive girls asking him to go dancing every Friday night.  I was in college at this time, and needless to say, I went to my fair share of bars, clubs, and rec halls that were cashing in on the swing dancing fad.  However, by the time I met J, the national fascination in swing had faded, and my one advantage on the dance floor was lost.

Much to my surprise and delight, J added swing lessons on her 30 before 30 list.  Immediately, I had visions of grandeur.  Like Jon Favreau's Mikey, I'd shock everyone with my slick moves and sweep J (playing the part of a young Heather Graham with ease) off her feet.  I was sadly mistaken.

Within the first minute of our lesson I knew I was in trouble as our instructor taught us a completely different version of swing as the one I knew in my previous life.  Now I found myself stepping on toes, counting out loud to stay on beat (with minimal success), and apologizing to everyone who had the misfortune of being partnered with me.

But we muddled through with our supportive instructor and more than a few gracious dancing partners.  At the end of the night, we left this beautiful dance space with our egos mostly intact and a new hobby to cultivate together.  Not bad for a Tuesday night.

West Wing Tour of the White House

J is going to turn the big 3-0 in May. In the lead up, she has created a "30 before 30" list. Some things are silly, like sitting in the big green chair in Georgetown and some are admirable, like conquering her fear of snakes at a local Petco. Some are great for her husband, like learning how to cook rack of lamb, while others cause him pain, like doing the 200 situp challenge (why did I agree to join? I turned 30 several years ago!). Some, however, are just plain cool, like taking a tour of the White House. Not the garden tour that we did a while back... we're talking inside.

Thanks to a friend who works at OMB (that's the Office of Management and Budget for those outside the Beltway) and also gives White House tours, we were able to get a behind the scenes peek at the West Wing. Cross it off the list!

While we were forbidden from taking pictures inside the West Wing, you already know what it looks like. Is there a DC-based movie or TV show that doesn't re-create the Oval Office? It looks just like that, but brighter. Much brighter. Saying it is well-lit is a massive understatement. Makes you think: maybe that's where John Boehner goes to tan. I kid...

The other thing we noticed about the Oval Office was the bowl of fresh apples on the coffee table. A result of Mrs. Obama's Let's Move initiative perhaps?

In addition to the Oval Office, our tour included a look at the Cabinet room and a whole bunch of doors that lead to very important things: the Press Room, the Situation Room, and the Rose Garden. While soaking in the history and power oozing from the walls, it was important to notice what was literally on the walls. It wasn't surprising, but it was breathtaking to see all of the famous portraits and historical scenes captured in oil. It was like walking through a history text book. This was contrasted by the litany of photographs depicting the public events and tender moments that make up Presidential life.

But the President and all the powerful people who frequent this famous office building are human, so not everything we saw was grand. There was the small kitchen advertising items not unfamiliar to a school cafeteria... and there was the bathroom. A throne for a king; the ultimate seat of power, right? Nope. Everyone who complains about government excess, let me tell you that chances are, the bathroom at your workplace is probably nicer, and almost definitely bigger, than that in the West Wing.

Frankly, it is embarrassing. I can just imagine foreign heads of state using this tiny space. In total, the entire space is probably less than 50 square feet. I understand we're in tight economic times, but can't the most powerful men in the world get a magazine or a toilet paper holder (there was a half used roll sitting on the tank)? I've seen nicer facilities in a McDonald's. Quite the contrast with the awesome stately power of the Oval Office just steps away...

J Says

Of all of the things on my 30 before 30 list, I was most excited about the White House tour. For some reason, the White House fascinates me more than any other building in Washington. Perhaps it's the unique combination of living museum and living space.

I was speechless as we walked through the (smaller than I pictured) halls of the West Wing. Imagining all of the important people that have walked these same halls, looking at the collection of art and memorabilia from around the world. I was wide-eyed the whole time.

While other things on my list will have tangible physical benefits (thank you 200 situp challenge), the West Wing Tour will be imprinted in my memory for a lifetime.

Ford's Theatre: 1776

We've written more than a few times about Ford's Theatre. Intimate space, historic venue, unique thing about DC... you've heard it all before. We're fans. (If you just can't get enough, read this and this and this)

Chances are that when you look at the production schedule at Ford's you will find a lot of performances that are heavily rooted in American history. 1776 is no different. Originally premiering on Broadway in 1969 and winning the Best Musical Tony, 1776 clearly has some credentials. And since we were both raised loving musicals, we jumped at the chance to see it.

The story centers on the month prior to the creation of the Declaration of Independence, featuring familiar characters named Adams, Franklin, and Jefferson debating the merits of revolution with other patriots whose names have faded through the years. It is a story of competing interests and hard fought compromise, issues that are just as relevant today as they were hundreds of years ago.

Many say that the mark of great compromise is that all sides feel somewhat dissatisfied. I felt that was true of 1776. It was part historical drama and part musical. In fusing the two, neither aspect was particularly great. Personally, I loved the dramatic and often humorous interplay between each of the colonial representatives, and feel like a better American for seeing 1776. Then again, I'm a sucker for American history.

On the other hand, I felt that the musical numbers were often clustered together and separated by extended dialogue, making the performance feel choppy. In addition, the lack of songs involving the full company in favor of solos and duets was a missed opportunity in our eyes. From the dramatic side, I thought the actors did a commendable job illustrating the era's challenges and perspectives. However, they did suffer from a story which tried to build dramatic tension around a decision point that we all know so well (though that didn't prevent the movie Titanic from being a hit).

While I won't be voting for 1776 to be the revival of the year, we very much enjoyed our evening at Ford's. We came away thoroughly entertained and educated. Not bad for a Monday night.

J Says

While we were sitting at Ford's reflecting on the productions we have seen there, I sheepishly admitted to B that I snoozed during the historical play "The Heavens Are Hung in Black" but was wide awake and tapping my foot during "Little Shop of Horrors."

1776 fell somewhere in the middle on the excitement spectrum between "The Heavens" and "Little Shop of Horrors." When the cast joined in big production numbers, it was fantastic and left me wanting more.

I think 1776 is a great fit for a school group that wants to learn American history in a more fun and exciting way. Judging by the audience, a lot of school groups had the same idea.

The show runs through May 19, 2012, so there is still plenty of time to get your revolutionary history geek on.

Food and Fun Two Go: Miami

First we shared every detail we could remember about the South Beach Wine and Food Festival. Now we're back to tell you what you can see and eat in Miami when it's not Festival time.

If it's your first trip and you want to be in the center of the action, there is no better place than Ocean Drive in South Beach. We stayed at the charming art deco Beacon Hotel (below). While it wasn't the fanciest hotel we've ever been in, it was clean, the room was spacious, and the location can't be beat.

And... the hotel was just steps away from this:

The hotel also provides beach chairs and towels so you can pack light and avoid those pesky airline bag fees. When we weren't stuffing our faces at the Festival, we played on the beach and wandered around town to see the sights.

Miami is full of beautiful people. Many are wearing very little clothing (we felt like we were dressed in Victorian outfits compared to the normal attire seen on the streets) and many have been artificially enhanced1. Even the mannequins get in on the fun2!

We were starving when we arrived from DC and immediately Googled a place for lunch. While Yelp does not always lead to good things, it found us a winner in this case. Puerto Sagua is a little Cuban restaurant serving incredibly tasty food in a very casual (some might say dingy) atmosphere3. The service was fast and friendly and we loved every bite of the ropa vieja4 and paella we ordered.

Our waitress said the paella would not be big enough for 2 people to share and then proceeded to bring out a giant vat of paella. She must be used to people with giant appetites because we took about a pound of paella back to our hotel room's fridge.

A B&J trip would not be complete without the obligatory stop at a Best Thing I Ever Ate restaurant or three. First up was Joe's Stone Crab, a 99 year old Miami institution. Joe's is only open during stone crab season (October - May) so we were lucky to hit it during its peak. Not only are the stone crab claws gorgeous, they are delicious5. The claws are served ice cold and easy to open, and are paired with an addictive mustard dipping sauce. Did you know that stone crabs can regenerate their legs? Joe's only removes one leg of the crab and leaves it in the water to regenerate the missing leg over a period of 12 to 24 months. A renewable resource found right offshore in Miami6.

Another Best Thing I Ever Ate pick was Fratelli la Bufala7. Scott Conant said this Italian chain has the best calzone he's ever eaten. We were satisfied but not blown away, and wouldn't consider it a "must try" destination.

If there is one restaurant that is a "must try" in Miami, it is Michael's Genuine Food & Drink8. Recommended by Anthony Bourdain and every other chef on the planet, Michael's serves amazingly delicious seasonal, local cuisine in a totally fuss-free atmosphere.

We were difficult clients and Michael's handled us with such grace. We wanted to squeeze in dinner before our flight home so we arrived at Michael's too early and carrying luggage. The hostess allowed us to stow our luggage under a staircase and showed us to the bar where we sipped cocktails while waiting for the staff to finish their pre-shift meeting. B was enthralled with the giant ice cube in his cocktail9. That's one big cube!

As soon as the restaurant officially opened, we were seated and greeted by Brandon. He was awesome. He recommended great dishes and was so sensitive to our time constraints. You could tell he absolutely loved each dish he served. So much so that he actually took us up on our offer of a bite of the crispy pig ear appetizer. He is our favorite waiter of all time10.

Wait, did I rush over that crispy pig's ear part too fast? Yes, we ate crispy pig's ears and LOVED them. Salty, spicy, crunchy, chewy and not at all squirm-inducing. Just amazing. Also amazing was the burrata cheese with heirloom tomatoes hiding in the back left of this photo:

I know I'm using a lot of frilly adjectives to describe Michael's Genuine but we had a fantastic experience. We're talking best meal of the last few years candidate. This place had 3 different chefs select 3 different desserts on a single episode of Best Thing I Ever Ate. MGF&D is serious business and it was the perfect way to cap off our sun-filled fiesta of food11.

Second Thoughts from B

You may have noticed a few pesky numbers floating around J's summary of our time in Miami. This is what happens when you pair a lawyer and scientist... you get a mutual love of footnotes. These are some of the random things that crossed my mind as J took us down memory lane:

1. There were lots of beautiful people wearing little more than a handkerchief tied together with dental floss. Unfortunately, there were also a lot of not so beautiful people with just as much... shall we say... self confidence? We're originally from LA. I grew up near Venice Beach and the set of BayWatch. I also worked in Hollywood for a few years. The point is, you'd think I'd be desensitized to all of this... Nope!
2. Seriously Miami? We need mannequins with triple D's in the windows? Let's be clear, this was one of many t-shirt shops, not a sex store in the red light district.
3. It is located right across the street from the Jersey Shore house if that's your thing.
   
4. To quote Geena Davis in Thelma & Louise after a rendezvous with a young Brad Pitt (it was on cable recently... I don't have the movie memorized), "I finally get what all the fuss is about!" That ropa vieja at Puerto Sagua was unlike any I've had before. The different layers of flavor were tremendous. It was like eating a filet mignon for the first time after having nothing but meatloaf all my life.
5. Delicious? Not where I sat. They were pretty and they are sustainable, but flavorful? Not so much. There are few things I love more than crab. I love the sweet ocean flavor and unique texture. I also love the challenge of figuring out how to obtain every last ounce from the shell. But for as much crab as I've eaten, I've never felt the need to augment the natural taste with sauce. These stone crabs however, though fresh, tasted like nothing. It was like eating crushed ice. Cold and mostly flavorless. Thank goodness for Joe's fantastic sauce, but I'll take Dungeness or King crab any day.
6. Stop the train! We're going to talk about Joe's and not mention the Key Lime Pie??? As mediocre as I thought the stone crabs were, the key lime pie more than made up for it. My father--the vanilla king of the world (seriously, he goes to ice cream shops and restaurants and orders a plain scoop of vanilla)--rarely changes his dessert routine. But when he does, it is often for a tart piece of pie like key lime or lemon meringue. This version of key lime might just make his head explode. Just don't tell him that you can get it shipped to you...
7. Yawn.
8. I could grab a thesaurus and use every superlative I could find to describe Michael's Genuine. Or, I could tell you that just halfway through the meal J and I were ready to crown it as our favorite restaurant in America.
9. I'm not much of a drinker (understatement of the year alert!), but when a cocktail is constructed with as much thought and complexity as the ones at Michael's Genuine, I could change my mind. It was like a finely constructed liquid meal.
   
10. Brandon was awesome. He read us perfectly. From accommodating our time constraints to being an active participant in our dining experience, the guy was simply outstanding.
11. Michael's Genuine answered the prototypical hypothetical question: what would be your last meal? After eating there, I certainly felt like I had died and gone to heaven...
    

Puerto Sagua
Joe's Stone Crab
Fratelli la Bufala
Michael's Genuine